BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY 2018

I love the vibrant greens that climb from the low valleys up the steep slopes of the southern Appalachian mountains in early Spring as the trees bud. There are hundreds of green shades carpeting the scenery while the higher ranges are still clothed in winter barrenness. Spring flowers take advantage of the open canopies. I enjoy these spring colors more than our fall showing.   A spring ride up the Blue Ridge Parkway showcases this. More so in the southern highlands which are higher than the Virginia high country. It is a difficult bike ride. Over 52,000 feet of climbing in 469 miles of parkway with the added limited services for water and food. Park service campgrounds are plentiful, and the occasional private camp fills some voids. Hot showers are limited. Sponge baths at cold-water sinks or a nearby creek will suffice. I learned I can bathe with only a two water bottle supply.   

Bonnie (and Jenny) bid me farewell

The Parkway begins with steep, consistent 6% grades at either end. Starting at Cherokee, NC (mile marker 469) there is a 10.5 mile ascent with no intermediate flat. The highest point of the Parkway at 6,053 feet occurs at mile post 432; lowest of 649 feet at the crossing of the James River at mile post 64. After the many high climbs of the southern section it becomes appreciatively flatter after the Linville Viaduct, which was closed for repairs on this trip. From here the landscape is high country marsh and slow streams where beaver activity is apparent and several lakes dot the area. This includes Julian Price Park, Moses Cone Park, and Glendale Springs. Afterwards the terrain becomes hilly again but the climbs are not as long as before.  

First night lodging at Balsam Mtn Inn

Sarah rode with me day 2

Devil's Courthouse...and Blackie

Asheville watershed

I always wanted to stay at Mt. Mitchell campground

View from camp over the rolling ranges

The usual way Mt. Mitchell looks (under the clouds)

Grandfather Mountain

There are few fellow bike tourers on route. I know a Lyon, France couple who were unable to WarmShower stay with us in Asheville are ahead of me. They have a four day start...I will never catch them before I turn to Charlottesville. Altogether I come upon 10-12 riders headed southward, including a young couple on my last BRP day who were on the Trans America Bike Route. This is the route that I too will be on during the next three weeks. There were also the two late 50-year-old men that were hiking the BRP north to south...because why not? I stop to chat with all these people. The hikers were from Roanoke and were slack-packing during the two or three days either side of Roanoke. A spouse of one would come out during the day to check on them. When I encountered them it was a very hot day in the mid 90s. Hot weather has come unseasonably early and relentless. Just a few miles further up the road, as I meet up with three guys riding exceptionally light-packed for a parkway ride, this spouse drives up to offer all four of us cold Gatorade.  

One French-Canadian south bound on BRP

Two to head west on Trans Am

Three from Charlotte south bound

Fifty lying quietly

Distance to northern terminus

Terrain goes from rugged...

...to gentle

I believe this is my main reason and drive for taking multi-day tours...the random acts of kindness and hospitality that is so easily given to strangers. Other car drivers have stopped to offer cold water. The many motorcyclists on the Parkway frequently give a thumbs up when passing. We have a common sense of comradery on the open road being immersed in the full sensory experience. I think they are impressed with my more physical output. When stopping at the overlooks we share stories. I imagined a video game where mages and wizards would give treasures or upgrade-knowledge when encountered on the game board. Not all mages though give valuable gifts. "Captain America" Dan standing by his Harley wanted to give me a joint. I trust he will make it safely home to his western North Carolina mountain home astride the babbling brook he loves with his wife. Travelers stop to share freely the knowledge gained behind them that might be useful to the one going forward. Information is a never-ending resource. No gain comes from hoarding it. I wish this could be more easily learned in the political and economic arenas.   

In-laws Alice, Nat, Curt, and critters...Blackie

I thought I had the campground at Doughton Park, mile post 240, all to myself until Sam the touring motorcyclist from Los Angeles came walking by and we talked. He is on a southern route to the BRP to Washington, DC to visit brother before returning via a northern route to LA; a three week tour. I mention that Mabry Mill will be well-timed for his next morning breakfast. Mabry Mill is the most photographed scene of the BRP. Curiously, even a Connecticut state postcard has used this image to promote the state. (?) The mill is no longer in working order, but the adjacent restaurant still uses stone ground meal for its pancakes and biscuits. When I arrive in time for lunch two days after meeting Sam, the front clerks call out "Robbie!" as I enter the restaurant. Seems Sam has left a $5.00 gift certificate of thanks for the "60ish, bearded, with pony tail bicyclist Robbie" coming up behind him. I love trail magic!  

Mabry Mill

The AT crosses the BRP several times between Roanoke and Rockfish Gap, the BRP northern terminus. Several days after Mabry Mill when I pull off to view an overlook, I catch an AT trail angel at work leaving fruit setting atop AT guideposts. He filled my water bottles as well before he departed to be on his angelic rounds.  

AT trail angel

When I stopped for a late lunch at Peaks of Otter Lodge I welcomed the south bound bicyclist to join me. He shared the hiker-biker site I would pass in the next day; I the location of close off-route restaurants coming up for him. The hiker-biker site he mentions is a wonderful example of this gift of giving as represented by the Devils Backbone Brewery Basecamp in Roseland, VA five miles off the BRP mile post 13 and the Appalachian Trail mile 482. Trail hikers can hitch hike or call the brewery for a free shuttle to take them down from the parkway to Basecamp. I just rode down the very steep 12-15% first two mile grade that levels off the last distance to a very well designed and sustainable landscaped brewery complex that includes a free hiker-biker campground with tables and fire pits and soon-to-be-completed hot showers. The brewery restaurant has wonderful food and a full offering of brews. The through-hikers are in heaven, many taking a short break and then ordering second dinners, and dessert. Some of the founders of the brewery have been through-hikers themselves and wanted to make themselves available to the AT hikers. There are approximately 10-12 hikers staying this night at Basecamp who are probably two weeks ahead of the front wave of the yearly AT hikers. This year has 3,000 plus starting at Springer Mountain, GA on the 2,100-plus mile trail to Mt. Kitahdin, ME that only 20% are likely to complete. Basecamp offers a $5.00 Hiker's Special full plate breakfast and coffee in the early morning before the free shuttle transports them back to the trailhead at the conjunction of the BRP. They let me load Lou also. I wasn't enamored about making the steep 15% climb...would put a damper on my last day to ride the BRP before descending into Charlottesville,VA along back roads and long-settled farmland. Batesville had a small market of pleasant surprise where I had lunch of soup, veggie pies, cookie, and coffee.  

AT through hikers and me

Morning shuttle back to top; 15% grades on road

AT through hikers set off

Charlottesville is where nephew somewhat-removed in-law Peter lives. I love in-law retreats! This gives me a few days rest, a new opportunity to visit Monticello, grocery shop, decide that one pair of riding shorts are too worn out so buy new, and find a good coffee shop to write. This weekend is UVA graduation day...it's going to be very crowded soon in town.   The fact also is that the weather has turned wet. So a few off days may allow most of the rain to pass. I have only had late afternoon showers up to now, timed as I completed setting the tent and to be over while I washed up.   

Northern Blue Ridge Parkway

Jefferson's abode...

...and house garden

One unsuspected find along the otherwise uncompromising beauty found throughout the Blue Ridge Parkway was the evening walk from Rocky Knob Campground, mile post 168. After the late afternoon tent-staking-thunderstorm, I hiked across a lovely open mountain meadow to a now abandoned section of the Appalachian Trail and its log and stone shelter sited high at the precipice of the 1,800 foot drop into the Rock Castle Gorge below. Another thunderstorm came just as I reached the shelter where I could hunker down and view the storm passing over the gorge. A loop trail took me past the lichen-encrusted outcropping of vertical bedrock expressing the violent uplift that formed the north wall of the gorge. Deer roamed the wooded mountain side looking for freshly wetted grass. Bright green moss cushioned the paving stones placed to form the trail bed. Another light rain that evening lulled me to sleep.  

Storm from old shelter; 1,800' drop to gorge

Uplift of rocks

Nice trail

High meadow

The leaves of the tree shall be for the healing of the nations 

Tomorrow I depart Charlottesville and ascend back to the BRP for the completion of my "Gap" ride on the Trans America Bike Route. The route is well-marked in Virginia as Bike Route 76, a reminder that this route was initially charted to celebrate the American Bi-Centennial. The route was originally known as the Bikecentennial and had approximately 4,000 riders that celebratory year cross the country. I met co-founder Greg Siple at Adventure Cycling Association headquarters in Missoula, MT on my 2013 cross country bike ride.  

1976 Bikecentennial

BIKE STATISTICS BRP CHEROKEE, NC to CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA
613 miles ridden
11 ride days
3 days to go visit children in Durham
4 off days 11 indoor nights
7 tent nights
61 saddle hours
10.05 average mph
52,664 accumulative feet climb
1 day wearing rain jacket